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Places compared

Sancerre vs Marlborough: the two regions

The two reference points for one grape, and the reason people take sides.

Which to choose

Choose

Sancerre

You want subtlety, or the food is delicate enough that a loud wine would cover it.

Choose

Marlborough

You want the aromatics to be the point, or you are drinking it without food.

Worth knowing

Sancerre was Pinot Noir country until phylloxera destroyed it in the 1880s. Sauvignon Blanc was planted in the replanting because it ripened reliably and sold — the modern identity of Sancerre is about 140 years old, which is younger than most people assume.

Where they differ

Written rather than computed. A place has no taste profile of its own — the wines made there do, and they vary — so averaging one into existence would produce a number for every dimension and a meaning for none.

Aromatic intensity

Sancerre

Restrained. Grapefruit, blackcurrant leaf, nettle and a smoky, stony quality.

Marlborough

Pronounced. Passionfruit, gooseberry and cut grass, at a volume nothing in the Loire matches.

Why

Sancerre

A cooler continental climate 300 km inland, moderate ripeness, and a long convention of restraint.

Marlborough

High sunshine hours with cold nights, which produces unusually high concentrations of the thiol compounds responsible for those aromas.

Body

Sancerre

Light-to-medium, with high acidity and a lean, chalky finish.

Marlborough

Medium, often with a touch more residual sugar than the label suggests, and softer acidity.

Price

Sancerre

Expensive for what it is, and increasingly so as demand has pushed plantings onto lesser sites.

Marlborough

Consistently good value, with remarkable reliability between producers and vintages.

Ageing

Sancerre

Best within three years, though the top growers make wines that repay five or more.

Marlborough

Drink within two. The aromatics that justify the purchase fade first.

What they share

Just as useful: knowing which parts of the choice do not matter.

One variety, both bone dry, both unoaked in the overwhelming majority of cases, and both built for shellfish, goat’s cheese and salad.

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