Why does Areni taste like that?

Characteristically high acidity. Commonly associated with sour cherry, redcurrant, dried herbs, white pepper.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

A wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.

Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.

Elevation lowers mean temperature and generally widens the diurnal range, both of which are associated with better acid retention. It also raises ultraviolet exposure, associated with thicker skins and higher phenolic content.

Varies: High-altitude sites at low latitude can be extremely hot by day despite a low mean temperature, so the effects do not all point the same way.

Not claiming: That high altitude always means high acidity.

Vanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.

Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.

Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.

Slow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.

Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.

The more structured oak-aged bottlings develop over about five years. The fresher unoaked style is for drinking young and slightly cool.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.