Why does Australian Chardonnay taste like that?

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green apple, lemon, white peach, pineapple.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Proximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.

Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.

Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.

A Mediterranean pattern of wet winters and dry summers is associated with reliable ripening and with mild late-season water stress, which restricts berry size and raises the ratio of skin to juice.

Varies: Where the dry season is severe or lengthening, the same pattern produces damaging rather than beneficial stress, and irrigation becomes necessary rather than optional.

Not claiming: That water stress is beneficial as such. Mild stress helps; severe stress halts ripening.

Fermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Five to ten years for Margaret River, the Yarra and the Adelaide Hills. The move away from heavy oak and full malolactic has made the modern style considerably more ageworthy than the 1990s one.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.