Why it tastes like this
Why does Austrian botrytis sweet wine taste like that?
Botrytised sweet wines from around the Neusiedlersee — reliable, high in acid, and consistently better value than Sauternes.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Austrian botrytis sweet wine as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Welschriesling
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with green apple, citrus, honey, apricot.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Chardonnay
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green apple, lemon, white peach, pineapple.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Grüner Veltliner
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with green apple, white pepper, lentil, celery.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Burgenland: warm influence
AssociationWarmer growing seasons are associated with faster sugar accumulation and lower retained acidity, so fruit reaches a given potential alcohol earlier in the season.
Varies: Above the vine’s photosynthetic optimum the relationship reverses: extreme heat stalls ripening, inhibits anthocyanin synthesis and can raise sugar only through berry dehydration.
Not claiming: That warm regions necessarily make high-alcohol wine. Potential alcohol at any moment is a choice point; the producer decides when to pick.
Burgenland: continental influence
AssociationA wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.
Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Noble rot
MechanismBotrytis cinerea perforates the grape skin and allows water to evaporate, concentrating sugar and acid, while its own metabolism produces glycerol and compounds associated with honey and dried apricot.
Varies: Noble rot requires a specific alternation of humid mornings and dry afternoons. The same fungus in persistent wet weather is grey rot and destroys the crop.
Not claiming: That botrytis is desirable in general. It is desirable in a narrow set of conditions on healthy fruit, and otherwise it is a disease.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyDecades for Trockenbeerenauslese and Ausbruch. Ruster Ausbruch in particular has a long documented record of ageing, and the Neusiedlersee’s reliable autumn botrytis is what makes the category possible at all.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Austrian botrytis sweet wine
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Austrian Wine Marketing Board — Österreich Wein Marketing
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO) — INAO, France
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- Research on climate change and viticultural suitability — Peer-reviewed climate and viticulture literature
- Wines of Argentina / Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura — Wines of Argentina; INV
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI