Why it tastes like this
Why does Cahors taste like that?
Malbec in its French homeland: darker, firmer and more savoury than the Argentine version.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Cahors as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Malbec
TendencyCharacteristically medium-plus tannin and medium-full body. Commonly associated with blackberry, black plum, violet, cocoa.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Merlot
TendencyCharacteristically medium-full body. Commonly associated with plum, black cherry, chocolate, cedar.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Tannat
TendencyCharacteristically high tannin, medium-plus acidity and full body. Commonly associated with blackberry, plum, smoke, licorice.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
South West France: continental influence
AssociationA wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.
Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.
South West France: maritime influence
AssociationProximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.
Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.
Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Maceration and extraction
MechanismFermenting on the skins extracts phenolic compounds, including the tannins that produce astringency. Extraction rises with time, temperature and alcohol level.
Varies: Extraction is not linear. Anthocyanins come out early and quickly; tannins continue throughout and beyond fermentation, and post-fermentation maceration can reduce perceived astringency by polymerising them.
Not claiming: That longer maceration always means more perceived tannin. Extended maceration frequently softens a wine rather than hardening it.
Maceration and extraction
MechanismAnthocyanins are extracted from black grape skins during skin contact, which is where red wine colour comes from. Most extraction happens in the first days.
Not claiming: That colour depth indicates quality or body. Nebbiolo is pale and highly tannic; deeply coloured wines can be light-bodied.
Oak ageing
MechanismVanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.
Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.
Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.
Oak ageing
MechanismSlow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.
Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyEight to fifteen years for the serious bottlings. Cahors Malbec is far more tannic and structured than the Argentine style and genuinely needs the time.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Cahors
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- Wines of Argentina / Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura — Wines of Argentina; INV
- Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO) — INAO, France
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) — OIV
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- The Oxford Companion to Wine — Oxford University Press
- Longitudinal studies comparing wine closures — Peer-reviewed oenological literature
- eAmbrosia — the EU geographical indications register — European Commission