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Why it tastes like this

Why does Condrieu taste like that?

The benchmark Viognier: full-bodied, dry and extravagantly scented of apricot and honeysuckle.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Condrieu as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Viognier

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-minus acidity and full body. Commonly associated with apricot, peach, honeysuckle, orange blossom.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Marsanne

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-minus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with almond, quince, beeswax, honeysuckle.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Roussanne

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin and medium-full body. Commonly associated with pear, herbal tea, honey, apricot.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

A wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.

Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.

A Mediterranean pattern of wet winters and dry summers is associated with reliable ripening and with mild late-season water stress, which restricts berry size and raises the ratio of skin to juice.

Varies: Where the dry season is severe or lengthening, the same pattern produces damaging rather than beneficial stress, and irrigation becomes necessary rather than optional.

Not claiming: That water stress is beneficial as such. Mild stress helps; severe stress halts ripening.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Fermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

Best in its first three or four years, while the apricot and honeysuckle aromatics are at full volume. Older bottles gain weight and lose perfume, which is the wrong trade for this wine.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted