Why it tastes like this
Why does Dry Furmint taste like that?
Tokaj’s modern commercial mainstay: structured, smoky, high-acid dry white that barely existed thirty years ago.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Dry Furmint as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Furmint
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin, high acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with quince, green apple, lime, smoke.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Hárslevelű
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with linden blossom, honey, pear, orange peel.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Tokaj: continental influence
AssociationA wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.
Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Barrel fermentation
ConventionFermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.
Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.
Lees ageing and bâtonnage
MechanismAutolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.
Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.
Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.
Stainless steel and inert vessels
ConventionFermenting in a vessel that contributes nothing, to preserve fruit and freshness.
Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyAges ten years or more.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Dry Furmint
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Tokaj wine region regulatory information — Hegyközségek Nemzeti Tanácsa / Tokaj regional body, Hungary
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- Wines of Argentina / Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura — Wines of Argentina; INV
- WSET educational materials and the Systematic Approach to Tasting — Wine & Spirit Education Trust
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- Comité Champagne — Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne