Why does Fiano di Avellino taste like that?

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with hazelnut, honey, pear, orange blossom.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

A Mediterranean pattern of wet winters and dry summers is associated with reliable ripening and with mild late-season water stress, which restricts berry size and raises the ratio of skin to juice.

Varies: Where the dry season is severe or lengthening, the same pattern produces damaging rather than beneficial stress, and irrigation becomes necessary rather than optional.

Not claiming: That water stress is beneficial as such. Mild stress helps; severe stress halts ripening.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Fermenting in a vessel that contributes nothing, to preserve fruit and freshness.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

One of the few southern Italian whites that improves rather than merely survives: five to ten years, gaining hazelnut, honey and a waxy texture.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.