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Why it tastes like this

Why does Spätburgunder (German Pinot Noir) taste like that?

Germany’s Pinot Noir, transformed since the 1990s from thin and sweetish into a genuinely serious cool-climate red.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Spätburgunder (German Pinot Noir) as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Pinot Noir

Tendency

Characteristically medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, forest floor.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Characteristically medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with black cherry, undergrowth, clove.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

A wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.

Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Fermenting on the skins extracts phenolic compounds, including the tannins that produce astringency. Extraction rises with time, temperature and alcohol level.

Varies: Extraction is not linear. Anthocyanins come out early and quickly; tannins continue throughout and beyond fermentation, and post-fermentation maceration can reduce perceived astringency by polymerising them.

Not claiming: That longer maceration always means more perceived tannin. Extended maceration frequently softens a wine rather than hardening it.

Anthocyanins are extracted from black grape skins during skin contact, which is where red wine colour comes from. Most extraction happens in the first days.

Not claiming: That colour depth indicates quality or body. Nebbiolo is pale and highly tannic; deeply coloured wines can be light-bodied.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Vanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.

Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.

Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Slow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.

Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.

Including stems in the ferment, which adds structure, spice and aromatic lift.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

Five to twelve years for the top tier. The transformation since the 1990s is largely a matter of lower yields and better oak handling, so the ageing record of the modern style is still relatively short.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted