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Why it tastes like this

Why does Hawke’s Bay Bordeaux blend taste like that?

Merlot-led Bordeaux blends from the Gimblett Gravels — New Zealand’s most serious red beyond Pinot Noir.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Hawke’s Bay Bordeaux blend as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Merlot

Tendency

Characteristically medium-full body. Commonly associated with plum, black cherry, chocolate, cedar.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Characteristically medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with raspberry, red plum, graphite, bell pepper.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Characteristically medium-plus tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with blackcurrant, black cherry, cedar, graphite.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

Proximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.

Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.

Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Fermenting on the skins extracts phenolic compounds, including the tannins that produce astringency. Extraction rises with time, temperature and alcohol level.

Varies: Extraction is not linear. Anthocyanins come out early and quickly; tannins continue throughout and beyond fermentation, and post-fermentation maceration can reduce perceived astringency by polymerising them.

Not claiming: That longer maceration always means more perceived tannin. Extended maceration frequently softens a wine rather than hardening it.

Anthocyanins are extracted from black grape skins during skin contact, which is where red wine colour comes from. Most extraction happens in the first days.

Not claiming: That colour depth indicates quality or body. Nebbiolo is pale and highly tannic; deeply coloured wines can be light-bodied.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Vanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.

Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.

Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.

Blending

Convention

Combining components to make something better than any of them alone.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Slow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.

Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

Eight to fifteen years from the Gimblett Gravels. Merlot-led blends soften earlier than Cabernet-led ones, and the warmest vintages are the ones worth keeping longest.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted