Why it tastes like this
Why does Jura Savagnin and Chardonnay taste like that?
Jura whites made either topped-up and fresh, or deliberately oxidative — two opposite philosophies from one cellar.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Jura Savagnin and Chardonnay as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Savagnin
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin, high acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green walnut, curry leaf, green apple, almond.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Chardonnay
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green apple, lemon, white peach, pineapple.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Jura: cool influence
AssociationCooler growing-season temperatures are associated with slower sugar accumulation and with higher retained acidity, because malic acid is respired more slowly at lower temperatures — particularly at night.
Varies: Season length matters as much as temperature. A long cool season can ripen fruit fully while retaining acidity; a short one may not ripen it at all.
Not claiming: That climate puts flavours into grapes. Climate acts on the vine’s physiology, and the picking decision then determines what reaches the bottle.
Jura: continental influence
AssociationA wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.
Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Oak ageing
MechanismVanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.
Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.
Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.
Biological ageing and flor
ConventionAgeing wine beneath a living film of yeast, which protects it and transforms it.
Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.
Oak ageing
MechanismSlow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.
Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.
Oxidative ageing
MechanismProlonged contact with air produces acetaldehyde and, over longer periods, sotolon, associated with walnut, curry leaf and dried-fruit characters.
Not claiming: That these characters indicate a fault. In oxidatively aged styles they are the intended result.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyThe two philosophies age quite differently. Topped-up (ouillé) whites are best at five to ten years; wines aged under a film of yeast (sous voile) are effectively indestructible and are frequently better after twenty.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Jura Savagnin and Chardonnay
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO) — INAO, France
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- Research on climate change and viticultural suitability — Peer-reviewed climate and viticulture literature
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- Wines of Argentina / Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura — Wines of Argentina; INV
- The Oxford Companion to Wine — Oxford University Press
- Consejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen Jerez-Xérès-Sherry — Consejo Regulador del Jerez
- Longitudinal studies comparing wine closures — Peer-reviewed oenological literature
- Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira — IVBAM, Portugal