Why does New Zealand Chardonnay taste like that?

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green apple, lemon, white peach, pineapple.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Proximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.

Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.

Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.

Lactic acid bacteria convert sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid, lowering total acidity and raising pH.

Not claiming: That malolactic fermentation is a second alcoholic fermentation. No alcohol is produced; it is a bacterial conversion.

Lactic acid bacteria can produce diacetyl during malolactic fermentation, as an intermediate in citric acid metabolism.

Varies: How much survives depends on bacterial strain, temperature, oxygen and how long the wine subsequently rests on its lees — yeast reduce diacetyl to compounds with far higher sensory thresholds.

Not claiming: That every malolactic fermentation produces perceptible buttery character. Many produce none.

Fermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Chardonnay is aromatically fairly neutral, and producers commonly use malolactic fermentation, lees ageing and barrel work to build texture and complexity. Whether any of them is used is a decision, not a property of the grape.

Varies: Chablis producers commonly restrict or block malolactic fermentation; a great deal of the world’s Chardonnay sees no oak at all.

Not claiming: That Chardonnay requires oak or malolactic fermentation, or that all Chardonnay undergoes either.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Five to ten years for Kumeu and the better Hawke’s Bay bottlings. The high natural acidity is the reason, and it is the same reason the wines are consistently undervalued young.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.