Why it tastes like this
Why does Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc taste like that?
Explosively aromatic passionfruit, gooseberry and cut grass — a flavour that had no real precedent when it appeared in the 1980s.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Sauvignon Blanc
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and high acidity. Commonly associated with gooseberry, grapefruit, passionfruit, cut grass.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Marlborough: cool influence
AssociationCooler growing-season temperatures are associated with slower sugar accumulation and with higher retained acidity, because malic acid is respired more slowly at lower temperatures — particularly at night.
Varies: Season length matters as much as temperature. A long cool season can ripen fruit fully while retaining acidity; a short one may not ripen it at all.
Not claiming: That climate puts flavours into grapes. Climate acts on the vine’s physiology, and the picking decision then determines what reaches the bottle.
Marlborough: maritime influence
AssociationProximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.
Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.
Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Sauvignon Blanc is commonly fermented cool in stainless steel under protective handling, because the thiols that carry its tropical character oxidise readily and cooler fermentation is associated with higher ester retention.
Varies: Bordeaux and an increasing number of producers elsewhere barrel-ferment and lees-age it instead, producing a quite different wine.
Not claiming: That Sauvignon Blanc must be handled this way.
Stainless steel and inert vessels
ConventionFermenting in a vessel that contributes nothing, to preserve fruit and freshness.
Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyDrink within two years. Freshness is the entire point, and it fades.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- New Zealand Winegrowers annual report — New Zealand Winegrowers
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- Research on climate change and viticultural suitability — Peer-reviewed climate and viticulture literature
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) — OIV
- Research on volatile thiols in Sauvignon Blanc — Peer-reviewed oenological literature
- WSET educational materials and the Systematic Approach to Tasting — Wine & Spirit Education Trust