Why it tastes like this
Why does Sauternes taste like that?
The benchmark botrytised sweet wine: honey, apricot and saffron, held together by piercing acidity.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Sauternes as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Sémillon
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with lemon, lanolin, beeswax, honey.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Muscadelle
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin. Commonly associated with orange blossom, grape, honeysuckle.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Sauvignon Blanc
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and high acidity. Commonly associated with gooseberry, grapefruit, passionfruit, cut grass.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Sauternes and Barsac: maritime influence
AssociationProximity to a large body of water moderates temperature extremes, which is associated with a longer, more even ripening period and a lower risk of both spring frost and extreme summer heat.
Varies: Maritime influence also raises humidity, which raises fungal disease pressure. It is not uniformly an advantage.
Not claiming: That a maritime climate is cool. Maritime describes variability, not temperature.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Noble rot
MechanismBotrytis cinerea perforates the grape skin and allows water to evaporate, concentrating sugar and acid, while its own metabolism produces glycerol and compounds associated with honey and dried apricot.
Varies: Noble rot requires a specific alternation of humid mornings and dry afternoons. The same fungus in persistent wet weather is grey rot and destroys the crop.
Not claiming: That botrytis is desirable in general. It is desirable in a narrow set of conditions on healthy fruit, and otherwise it is a disease.
Barrel fermentation
ConventionFermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.
Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyAmong the longest-lived wines made. Good vintages routinely last fifty years and gain complexity throughout.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Sauternes
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Wine Australia — regions, GIs and market information — Wine Australia
- Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO) — INAO, France
- New Zealand Winegrowers annual report — New Zealand Winegrowers
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) — OIV
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- WSET educational materials and the Systematic Approach to Tasting — Wine & Spirit Education Trust
- eAmbrosia — the EU geographical indications register — European Commission