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Why it tastes like this

Why does Tokaji Aszú taste like that?

Hungary’s great botrytised sweet wine, from a region classified before Bordeaux — honeyed, smoky and held up by ferocious acidity.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Tokaji Aszú as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Furmint

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin, high acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with quince, green apple, lime, smoke.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Hárslevelű

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with linden blossom, honey, pear, orange peel.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Characteristically very low tannin and light-medium body. Commonly associated with grape, orange blossom, elderflower, peach.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

A wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.

Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Noble rot

Mechanism

Botrytis cinerea perforates the grape skin and allows water to evaporate, concentrating sugar and acid, while its own metabolism produces glycerol and compounds associated with honey and dried apricot.

Varies: Noble rot requires a specific alternation of humid mornings and dry afternoons. The same fungus in persistent wet weather is grey rot and destroys the crop.

Not claiming: That botrytis is desirable in general. It is desirable in a narrow set of conditions on healthy fruit, and otherwise it is a disease.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Vanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.

Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.

Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.

Oak ageing

Mechanism

Slow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.

Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

Among the longest-lived wines in existence; well-stored bottles last a century.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted