Why it tastes like this
Why does Tokaji Aszú taste like that?
Hungary’s great botrytised sweet wine, from a region classified before Bordeaux — honeyed, smoky and held up by ferocious acidity.
These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Tokaji Aszú as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.
The grape
What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?
Furmint
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin, high acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with quince, green apple, lime, smoke.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Hárslevelű
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with linden blossom, honey, pear, orange peel.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains
TendencyCharacteristically very low tannin and light-medium body. Commonly associated with grape, orange blossom, elderflower, peach.
Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.
Place and climate
What did the growing season do to the fruit?
Tokaj: continental influence
AssociationA wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.
Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.
Winemaking
What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?
Noble rot
MechanismBotrytis cinerea perforates the grape skin and allows water to evaporate, concentrating sugar and acid, while its own metabolism produces glycerol and compounds associated with honey and dried apricot.
Varies: Noble rot requires a specific alternation of humid mornings and dry afternoons. The same fungus in persistent wet weather is grey rot and destroys the crop.
Not claiming: That botrytis is desirable in general. It is desirable in a narrow set of conditions on healthy fruit, and otherwise it is a disease.
Oak ageing
MechanismVanillin and oak lactones are extracted from oak into the wine, in quantities that fall sharply with each use of a barrel.
Varies: Species, grain, seasoning, toast level, barrel size and the age of the barrel all change what is extracted and how much.
Not claiming: That oak produces buttery character. That comes from malolactic fermentation. Nor that a given oak origin yields a given flavour.
Oak ageing
MechanismSlow oxygen ingress through the staves and bung promotes polymerisation of tannins and anthocyanins, which stabilises colour and is generally associated with a softer perception of tannin.
Not claiming: That an old barrel is equivalent to a steel tank. Aromatic extraction falls with use; oxygen permeability does not.
Age
What changes after the wine is bottled?
Development in bottle
TendencyAmong the longest-lived wines in existence; well-stored bottles last a century.
Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.
Follow it up
Style
Tokaji Aszú
The taste profile, food matches, serving guidance and what to try next.
Science
Why wine is like this
The mechanisms behind each contributor above, explained at the scope they have been established.
Myths
What people get wrong
Several of the explanations usually given for wines like this do not survive checking.
Sources
Sources consulted
- Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC) — Julius Kühn-Institut, Institute for Grapevine Breeding Geilweilerhof
- Tokaj wine region regulatory information — Hegyközségek Nemzeti Tanácsa / Tokaj regional body, Hungary
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties — Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz (Allen Lane, 2012)
- UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology — University of California, Davis
- Wines of Argentina / Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura — Wines of Argentina; INV
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- The Oxford Companion to Wine — Oxford University Press
- Longitudinal studies comparing wine closures — Peer-reviewed oenological literature
- eAmbrosia — the EU geographical indications register — European Commission