Why does Vermentino taste like that?

Characteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with lime, green almond, sea salt, wild fennel.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Warmer growing seasons are associated with faster sugar accumulation and lower retained acidity, so fruit reaches a given potential alcohol earlier in the season.

Varies: Above the vine’s photosynthetic optimum the relationship reverses: extreme heat stalls ripening, inhibits anthocyanin synthesis and can raise sugar only through berry dehydration.

Not claiming: That warm regions necessarily make high-alcohol wine. Potential alcohol at any moment is a choice point; the producer decides when to pick.

A Mediterranean pattern of wet winters and dry summers is associated with reliable ripening and with mild late-season water stress, which restricts berry size and raises the ratio of skin to juice.

Varies: Where the dry season is severe or lengthening, the same pattern produces damaging rather than beneficial stress, and irrigation becomes necessary rather than optional.

Not claiming: That water stress is beneficial as such. Mild stress helps; severe stress halts ripening.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Fermenting in a vessel that contributes nothing, to preserve fruit and freshness.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Drink young — within two years. Sardinian Vermentino di Gallura Superiore has a little more substance and can take a third.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.