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Why it tastes like this

Why does White Burgundy taste like that?

Barrel-fermented Chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune and Mâconnais — the model every serious oaked Chardonnay in the world is measured against.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for White Burgundy as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Chardonnay

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin, medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with green apple, lemon, white peach, pineapple.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

Cooler growing-season temperatures are associated with slower sugar accumulation and with higher retained acidity, because malic acid is respired more slowly at lower temperatures — particularly at night.

Varies: Season length matters as much as temperature. A long cool season can ripen fruit fully while retaining acidity; a short one may not ripen it at all.

Not claiming: That climate puts flavours into grapes. Climate acts on the vine’s physiology, and the picking decision then determines what reaches the bottle.

A wide day–night temperature range is associated with better acid retention, because cool nights slow the respiration that consumes malic acid while warm days continue to ripen the fruit.

Not claiming: That altitude or continentality guarantees high acidity. Both widen diurnal range on average and neither determines the outcome.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Lactic acid bacteria convert sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid, lowering total acidity and raising pH.

Not claiming: That malolactic fermentation is a second alcoholic fermentation. No alcohol is produced; it is a bacterial conversion.

Lactic acid bacteria can produce diacetyl during malolactic fermentation, as an intermediate in citric acid metabolism.

Varies: How much survives depends on bacterial strain, temperature, oxygen and how long the wine subsequently rests on its lees — yeast reduce diacetyl to compounds with far higher sensory thresholds.

Not claiming: That every malolactic fermentation produces perceptible buttery character. Many produce none.

Fermenting white wine in oak rather than steel, which integrates the oak more completely.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Chardonnay is aromatically fairly neutral, and producers commonly use malolactic fermentation, lees ageing and barrel work to build texture and complexity. Whether any of them is used is a decision, not a property of the grape.

Varies: Chablis producers commonly restrict or block malolactic fermentation; a great deal of the world’s Chardonnay sees no oak at all.

Not claiming: That Chardonnay requires oak or malolactic fermentation, or that all Chardonnay undergoes either.

Autolysis of spent yeast releases mannoproteins and other compounds that contribute texture and weight, and savoury bready characters.

Varies: Effect scales with time and is increased by stirring the lees.

Not claiming: That a bready or brioche character proves long lees ageing. Other routes to similar descriptors exist.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

Village wines four to eight years; Premier and Grand Cru ten to twenty.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted