Wine fault
Smoke taint
Ashtray and burnt aromas in wine from vineyards exposed to bushfire smoke — an increasingly significant problem.
What you notice
Smell
- Smells of ashtray, burnt wood or cold cinders
Taste
- A drying, ashy character on the finish that builds with each sip
What it is
Smoke taint has moved from a curiosity to a major viticultural concern as wildfire frequency has increased in Australia, California and elsewhere.
It is unusually difficult to manage because much of the taint is bound in glycoside form and undetectable at harvest, only appearing after fermentation.
The ashy character characteristically builds through a glass rather than being obvious in the first sniff, which distinguishes it from oak smokiness.
Producers in affected regions increasingly test fruit before harvest, and some have declassified or abandoned entire vintages.
What causes it
- Grapes absorbing volatile phenols from smoke during the growing season, particularly after véraison.
- The compounds bind to sugars in the grape and can be released later during fermentation and even in the mouth, which makes the problem hard to detect early.
Can I fix it?
No — nothing will fix it
No, not at the consumer end. The compounds are partly bound to sugars in the wine and are released as you drink it.
What you can do
- Nothing at the consumer end.
What does not work
Published because a reader holding a spoiled bottle has usually already been told to try one of these. Correcting the specific wrong advice is more use than stating the right answer beside it in silence.
- Decanting
- The bound fraction keeps releasing free guaiacol in the mouth, so aeration does not help and the ashy finish often builds across a glass rather than fading.
Is it safe to drink?
Not a safety problem
Unpleasant, not harmful. You can drink it; you may not want to.
Yes. The smoke-derived compounds are the same ones present in smoked foods, at far lower concentrations. The problem is entirely one of flavour.
Can I take it back?
Yes, if it is pronounced.
Sources
Sources consulted
- The Australian Wine Research Institute — AWRI
- Wine flavours, faults and taints — The Australian Wine Research Institute
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