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Administrative area · Italy

Sicily

A large Mediterranean island whose modern reputation rests on high-altitude Etna wines and on Nero d’Avola.

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About Sicily

Sicily produces a very large volume of wine, but the quality story of the last two decades has been Mount Etna, where vineyards climb to around 1,000 m on the volcano’s flanks. Nerello Mascalese grown at that height gives pale, high-acid reds — the altitude is doing most of that work, since it keeps the growing season cool enough for acidity to survive full ripening on an island at the latitude of Tunisia.

Etna Rosso is frequently compared to Burgundy and Barolo — again for structure and transparency rather than flavour.

Nero d’Avola, the island’s most planted red, ranges from soft commercial wine to something considerably more serious. Grillo and Catarratto make the principal whites, and Marsala is the historic fortified wine.

Sicily is a administrative area, not an appellation

No authority delimits this name or attaches rules to it. A political unit — an Italian region, an English county, a US county — used as a wine area because that is how the industry and its readers talk about it, not because a wine authority delimited it. That does not make it less real or less useful — it means nothing legal follows from it, and you will not generally find it on a label as a controlled designation.

Grapes

Wines from here

Climate

Everything from hot and arid in the west to genuinely cool at altitude on Etna, where vineyards reach a thousand metres.

These are influences on how a wine turns out, not determinants of it. Picking date, yield, vine age and every winemaking decision sit between the climate and the glass.

Soil and geology

Volcanic black sand and lava on Etna; limestone, clay and sand elsewhere. The contrast is the reason Etna behaves like a different country.

WineHQ describes soil in terms of what it demonstrably does — drainage, heat retention, water supply, rooting depth — and not in terms of flavours it is said to transmit. Vines take up ions, not aromas, and no mechanism has been demonstrated by which a mineral in the ground is tasted in the glass. See soil and drainage.

Places within it

  • EtnaVineyards on the slopes of an active volcano, producing pale, high-acid reds and mineral whites.
  • VittoriaSicily’s only DOCG, in the island’s south-east, blending Nero d’Avola with the much lighter Frappato.

What to eat, and how to serve it

Derived from this region’s signature styles. Each is listed separately, because a region does not have one serving temperature.

Etna Rosso

Serve at 1517°C (cellar cool).

Try with mushroom pizza, aubergine or fillet steak.

Nero d’Avola

Serve at 1517°C (cellar cool).

Try with aubergine, fillet steak or grilled chicken.

Marsala

Serve at 1216°C (cellar cool).

Try with tiramisu, fillet steak or grilled chicken.

Sources

Sources consulted