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Why it tastes like this

Why does Marsala taste like that?

Sicily’s fortified wine, made in dry and sweet styles and badly served by its reputation as a cooking ingredient.

What this page is and is not

These are the contributors WineHQ can name for Marsala as a category. Every one is a tendency, a convention or a mechanism, and each carries a label saying which. None of it describes how a particular producer made a particular bottle — real practice varies enormously, and a causal account that read as a recipe would be false for a great many of the wines it covers.

The grape

What does the variety bring before anyone does anything to it?

Grillo

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with lemon, grapefruit, fennel, sea salt.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Catarratto

Tendency

Characteristically very low tannin and medium-plus acidity. Commonly associated with lemon, green melon, fennel, almond.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Characteristically medium-plus acidity and medium-full body. Commonly associated with black cherry, plum, liquorice, tobacco.

Not claiming: That every wine from this variety shows these characteristics. This is the range across the category, and site and winemaking move wines within and beyond it.

Place and climate

What did the growing season do to the fruit?

Warmer growing seasons are associated with faster sugar accumulation and lower retained acidity, so fruit reaches a given potential alcohol earlier in the season.

Varies: Above the vine’s photosynthetic optimum the relationship reverses: extreme heat stalls ripening, inhibits anthocyanin synthesis and can raise sugar only through berry dehydration.

Not claiming: That warm regions necessarily make high-alcohol wine. Potential alcohol at any moment is a choice point; the producer decides when to pick.

A Mediterranean pattern of wet winters and dry summers is associated with reliable ripening and with mild late-season water stress, which restricts berry size and raises the ratio of skin to juice.

Varies: Where the dry season is severe or lengthening, the same pattern produces damaging rather than beneficial stress, and irrigation becomes necessary rather than optional.

Not claiming: That water stress is beneficial as such. Mild stress helps; severe stress halts ripening.

Winemaking

What decisions were taken between the vineyard and the bottle?

Fortification

Mechanism

Adding spirit raises alcohol above the level yeast can tolerate. Added during fermentation it halts the process, leaving unfermented grape sugar in the wine — which is why Port is sweet. Added after fermentation has finished, the wine remains as dry as it already was, which is the Sherry case.

Varies: Timing is the whole variable. The same operation on the same wine a week apart produces a sweet fortified wine or a dry one.

Not claiming: That fortification produces sweetness. It produces sweetness only when it interrupts a fermentation that still has sugar to work on.

Prolonged contact with air produces acetaldehyde and, over longer periods, sotolon, associated with walnut, curry leaf and dried-fruit characters.

Not claiming: That these characters indicate a fault. In oxidatively aged styles they are the intended result.

Fractional blending across tiers of barrels, so no wine is of a single vintage.

Not claiming: That every producer of this style uses this method, or that using it is required.

Age

What changes after the wine is bottled?

The Fine and Superiore tiers are ready on release. Vergine and Soleras, aged oxidatively for five to ten years or more before sale, are stable for decades and continue to concentrate slowly in bottle.

Not claiming: That a wine of this style will develop these characters. Ageing potential varies by producer, vintage and storage, and most wine is better young.

Follow it up

Sources

Sources consulted